Please get my guidebook, seriously
It's had some great reviews! And I make a little money with each purchase. But this is mainly a passion project. I love this trail. It is complicated, not like any other trail I've hiked (in the US or Europe), not quite complete, but still very hikeable if you're flexible and especially if you do your homework. And PLEASE read the intro; I generally skip that part of guidebooks, but this trail is different from other trails. For instance, don't drink water from streams! Use toilets! Don't plan to camp on the beach every night (or even many nights)! The intro explains why.
Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail (Mountaineers Books) is designed as a guide for thru-hikers and section hikers, with more emphasis on camping options, boat shuttles, and other details backpackers and inn-to-inn hikers need than you can find in my 2015 guidebook Day Hiking: Oregon Coast. It's packed with information. But the OCT is still a work in progress, with new trail sections opening up and other sections of trail closing due to winter storms, plus details about boat ferries, camping options and other services changing as well. Please continue to visit this website for updates to the information found in Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail.
Get the right book for your trek. Author Connie Soper has written a wonderful book called Exploring the Oregon Coast Trail. But it is designed as a guide to hiking the trail as a series of day hikes; it does not deal with the problems of finding legal campsites and potable water, dealing with long highway shoulder stretches, and other issues for thru-hikers. If you plan to thru-hike or section-hike the OCT, I urge you to get my book, Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail.
Side note: I've often wished I could share a book list with folks planning to come to the Pacific Nothwest to hike the OCT. Then I had an opportunity to create one on shepherd.com.
The OCT hiking season is basically June through September
I don't recommend hiking the OCT in winter, definitely not south of Florence. Many rivers and even creeks are too high to wade until (typically) mid-June, which is a big problem on the south coast where often there are no bridge alternatives (without bushwacking through private property).
As the trail gets more popular, it will be more important than ever to practice Leave No Trace, OCT-style:
- Camp only where it's legal. (And when you just can't, please be subtle: don't put up your tent until nightfall, and and leave no evidence that you were there.)
- Don't crap on the beach or in the dunes, which may actually be someone's "front yard." There are plenty of toilets; along this trail; locations are on maps in my book. In wild areas (Oregon Dunes, for instance) bury feces at least 6 inches deep, preferably in soil, not sand.
- Plan ahead. Getting boat rides across bay mouths, where possible, is great, but in most cases you need to arrange it a day or two in advance. Be where and when the outfitter tells you to meet him or her.
HERE IS MY INITIAL UPDATE FOR 2023. It's a summary of trail condition reports, new info, and a few corrections to supplement what you'll find in my book. (Scroll down for links to section pages, photos, etc.)
I don't have GPX files to share, but I suggest you get the Gaia GPS app (premium, for $39.99) and use the OpenHikingMap overlay. I think it shows all (or almost all) the trail walking sections; refer to my book for details as necessary.
If you encounter trail closures, bad trail conditions, or other challenges you'd like to warn other 2023 hikers about, please email me and I'll share your info here.
Last updated 1/9/23
SECTION 1
THE NORTH TRAILHEAD AT THE COLUMBIA RIVER: Trailhead and viewing platform are fully reopened now (at Parking Lot C, Fort Stevens State Park).
ECOLA STATE PARK: A lot of people seem to miss where the trail continues south of the Indian Point parking area on south side of Tillamook Head. DO NOT GO DOWN TO THE BEACH! Walk across the parking area and pick up the trail south to Ecola Point.
ARCADIA BEACH: Vault toilets only, no water.
OSWALD WEST STATE PARK: If you need water, use the restrooms (flush toilets, potable water) right above Short Sand Beach, just off the OCT route (a second restroom building to the south, closer to Necarney Creek, is closed). It's the last tap water before Manzanita. There are also restrooms 0.5 mile off the OCT on US 101 at the main Short Sand Beach parking area. (Note that the trail over Cape Falcon can be very brushyearly in the season.)
SECTION 2
CAMPING NORTH OF TILLAMOOK: If you opt for hiking (or busing) the highway around Tillamook Bay, note that Twins Ranch, a private campground 6 miles south of Garibaldi, offers tent camping and is very friendly to OCT hikers. There is no formal hiker-biker area, but they will always find room for hikers, and at a very friendly price.
CAPE MEARES: My book says Bayshore Road is the official route to the top of Cape Meares, because the old trail to the top was no longer being maintained. News: that trail is again being maintained and it is to be the official OCT route going forward, though it is steep and prone to slides. (Besides Bayshore Road is currently closed to hikers on and off as contractors reroute the road for car traffic.) To reach the trail from Emergency Beach Access sign 30 in the community of Cape Meares, continue south on the beach 0.6 mile (and over a rock ledge, or around it at low tide) and look for a steep, rough trail heading up the last gully before the cliffs at the cape; the trail quickly improves as it leads about 1 mile to the state park entrance atop the cape.
NETARTS BAY: Andy is now the manager at Big Spruce Boat Rentals. He is usually too busy with his boat rental business to shuttle folks across the bay mouth but will sometimes do it at or just before high tide, most likely in the afternoon when they already have a boat available at the Netarts boat ramp. He doesn’t want to advertise this service! But you might luck out. Note new phone number: 503-801-5434.
SAND LAKE OUTLET: Great tip from a hiker who found Sand Lake outlet too high to safely cross at the mouth. He learned that, at low tide, it's possible to walk from Fishermans Day Use Area across the estuary to Whalen Island (about 300 yards) without water rising above his knees. He found the footing fairly solid (but used trekking poles). Upon reaching the island, follow the shoreline footpath south to Whalen Island County Park. Here you can camp, or continue south by crossing the bridge and continuing south on Sandlake Road to Sitka Sedge State Natural Area and its trails back to the beach. NOTE: Attempt this only at low tide (which at this location is probably about an hour after low tide at the mouth), and be aware that conditions may change; be ready to reverse course if necessary.
INN-TO-INN HIKERS: Sandlake Country Inn does seem to be permanently closed.
CASCADE HEAD: The bottom of the North Rainforest Trail is now a lot easier to spot as you hike up the highway south of Neskowin; they’ve carved out a small parking area. Take the trail up and over the head. You may see a sign indicating that Forest Road 1861 is closed; don't let it worry you. Cars can't use it due to a massive landslide near the start of the road, but as a hiker you just have to cross over the road (far from the landslide) to continue down the South Rainforest Trail.
SALMON RIVER TO ROAD'S END: Sounds like I kicked a hornet's nest by suggesting hikers leave the highway at N. Clancy Road (Section 2, Leg 6). The road was not posted as private when I have hiked it, but apparently it is, and the property owners on it are NOT friendly. I suggest you NOT walk up N. Clancy Road but instead trudge another 2 MILES on the shoulder of US 101 to NW 40th St. and use it to access the beach. This would be so much better for hikers if USFS would build a short connecting trail from N. Fraser Road to existing trails leading to Road's End. Until that happens, stick to the highway.
SECTION 3
FISHING ROCK-FOGARTY CREEK: Get out your Sharpie! I had missed a route change at Fogarty Creek that keeps hikers west of the highway (so no highway crossings), still gives you restroom access, and adds no distance to the hike. Cross off the instructions on pp. 141-142 and do this instead: After leaving the beach at Fishing Rock, turn right on Fogarty Avenue and follow it south to US 101. Then walk the highway shoulder just 0.1 mile and veer right into a wide gravel path down to the beach. Wade the creek if you want, otherwise go left on the paved path along the creek a short distance to a footbridge (at the park restrooms), cross the bridge, and take another paved path on the south bank east to stone stairs leading up the hill to where the OCT continues south.
WALDPORT: If high water keeps you from returning to the beach immediately south of town (p. 154), here’s a shortcut: rather than walk the highway for 1.2 miles south to Governor Patterson SRS, leave the highway in just 0.5 mile at Waziyata Avenue; follow it (bearing right) out to a beach access trail.
CAPE PERPETUA: Campground host says there is no longer a hiker-biker site at the campground here, bummer. You can camp, but it's no longer drop-in and costs more.
LODGING IN FLORENCE: As I note in the book, there is tent camping at the Port of Siuslaw in Florence, but not hiker-biker (and not cheap). Another option: Florence 101 Hostel. Owner Marianne Brisbane had to convert it from dorms to private rooms due to covid, so it's more expensive, but not bad: $43-$55/night + fees. No website, and inactive on Facebook; instead use Airbnb to book. Google "airbnb florence 101 hostel." She is adding more small rooms/pods in an adjacent house; they should be available by July and will be even cheaper ($35 + fees). Could be a nice splurge to celebrate the halfway point on the OCT.
SECTION 4
CROSSING THE UMPQUA RIVER: Definitely call ahead to get a ride from Winchester Bay Charters (or take your chances flagging down a passing boater). Note that they may not be able to accommodate your schedule; be prepared to adjust to their schedule. (These are great people trying to run a small business on the coast in a pandemic; be kind.) The alternative is to leave the beach at Beach Access 116 for a 12.3-mile slog on gravel Sparrow Park Road and the shoulder of US 101. Not fun.
CROSSING COOS BAY: Winchester Bay Charters may be able to help you find an outfitter there to take you across Coos Bay, but charter boat operators in Charleston generally aren't familiar with the OCT or aware of hikers' needs, yet (their focus is on fishing), so don't count on it. Note that, if you can pull it off, the 4-mile crossing will be more expensive than most (shorter) boat ferries on the OCT. (And if you find an outfitter who will ferry you, please let me know!)
SHUTTLE AROUND COOS BAY: In the absence of a solid boat ferry option around Coos Bay, OCT trail angels Ash and Will are available to drive hikers around the bay (from Horsfall Beach to Charleston). They are also willing to put hikers up at their Coos Bay-area home. Email them at hauserhikerride@gmail.com. They offer rides as a volunteer service, but contributions to cover their costs are appreciated.
INN-TO-INN AT FLORAS LAKE: Floras Lake Inn has reopened as a B&B.
SECTION 5
SOUTH OF HUMBUG: More details about a public transport alternative to a long highway shoulder walk: Curry Public Transit bus will pick you up at the entrance to Humbug Mountain State Park campground and drop you off at Nesika or Otter Point for just $4. Call dispatch (541-412-8806) when they open at 8 am and they‘ll tell the driver to look for you. Three southbound buses a day make this trip.
MORE SOUTH OF HUMBUG: A landslide occurred in January a mile or two north of Arizona Beach, on a highway shoulder-hiking section. Be prepared to follow flaggers instructions for hiking through here. Also, just south of the Arizona Beach-Sisters Rock trail section, in the book (page 220I I suggest you consider walking up a short abandoned and overgown portion of Coy Creek Road to get to an off-highway route. A thru-hiker has reported that he found the route basically impassable due to blackberry thickets, etc. We might have to wait and hope that this route eventually gets claimed and maintained as an official part of the OCT, but for now it appears you need to stick to the highway all the way to Ophir.
PISTOL RIVER: In mid-May 2021 I heard from a hiker that the mouth of Pistol River was totally crossable. I have checked it several times in the past, even low tide late summer, and I have never found it crossable. Obviously it is very variable. You could try it, knowing you might have to backtrack. Otherwise follow the instructions in Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail that have you leaving the beach at Beach Access 185 (Pistol River Middle). Look for a house-sized rock and a trail leading through the dunes to the highway. Walk the shoulder of US 101 south 1.3 miles, cross the river on the highway bridge, and return to the beach over the dunes west of Pistol River State Scenic Viewpoint.
BOARDMAN STATE SCENIC CORRIDOR: Last summer guidebook author Bill Sullivan wrote an article about a two-night backpacking trip he made in Boardman. Too bad he either didn't know about my book and about the Oregon Coast Trail Action Plan or chose not to mention them, and he didn't realize that filtering surface water on the OCT isn't a good idea like it is in the mountains. But his choices of (illegal) campsites might be helpful to other hikers: China Beach (good to know high tide didn't reach his tent) and the remote-ish south end of Whaleshead Beach (if you choose to camp here, don't put up your tent until sunset and take it down promptly in the morning).
Overviews and Section Hike Suggestions
Introduction to the Oregon Coast Trail
Section 2: Garibaldi to Siletz Bay at Lincoln City
Introduction to the Oregon Coast Trail
The Oregon Coast isn't a wilderness. But hiking the Oregon Coast Trail is an adventure. Read about season, direction of travel, and other quirks and key info.
Section 1: Columbia River to Garibaldi
Section 2: Garibaldi to Siletz Bay at Lincoln City
Introduction to the Oregon Coast Trail
The start of the OCT (yes, you definitely should hike southbound) has beaches, headlands, everything--but limited legal camping presents challenges.
Section 2: Garibaldi to Siletz Bay at Lincoln City
Section 2: Garibaldi to Siletz Bay at Lincoln City
Section 2: Garibaldi to Siletz Bay at Lincoln City
A half-dozen gorgeous headlands, long beaches, camping and lodging options, and limited highway walking if you study the route carefully.
Section 3: Siletz Bay to Florence
Section 5: Port Orford to the border
Section 2: Garibaldi to Siletz Bay at Lincoln City
A great stretch with fabulous views and good lodging and camping, diminished only by a couple of long stretches of highway walking.
Section 4: Florence to Port Orford
Section 5: Port Orford to the border
Section 5: Port Orford to the border
The most remote stretch of the OCT, ideal for backpacking, with a couple of bay mouth crossings--one easy to wrangle, one more challenging.
Section 5: Port Orford to the border
Section 5: Port Orford to the border
Section 5: Port Orford to the border
Amazing views in this least-developed stretch of the Oregon Coast, but limited lodging and some camping challenges, and some long highway hiking.
Photo Gallery
About the Author
Journalist and Avid Hiker
Bonnie Henderson has been backpacking and writing about the Oregon Coast Trail since 2008. She is the author of three guidebooks: Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail, Day Hiking: Oregon Coast, and Best Hikes with Kids: Oregon (with Zach Urness), all from Mountaineers Books. She is also the author of two nonfiction books: The Next Tsunami: Living on a Restless Coast and Strand: An Odyssey of Pacific Ocean Debris, both from Oregon State University Press. She lives in Eugene, Oregon. Follow her work at bonniehendersonwrites.com.